In The Press: Melissa Morris and Fernando Jorge x Net-A-Porter
Extra! Extra!
29 November 2023
In normal circumstances, it’s probably best to adhere to the received wisdom that one should never mix business and pleasure. Not so, however, for Melissa Morris and Fernando Jorge. The creative duo politely ignored that particular life lesson in a new joint venture – with happy consequences. Working together has been, they agree, both professionally and personally nourishing.
So, when we talk, Jorge cautions it might be tricky to keep them on-script. “It’s been almost a week without catching up!” he elaborates. The official topic of conversation is their new collaboration, a meticulous capsule collection of luxe evening bags and small leather goods. It draws on and amplifies the distinct skills and expertise of them both. Morris is the founder of the luggage brand Métier, renowned for its sumptuous, pared-back designs; Jorge helms his eponymous Fernando Jorge fine-jewelry brand, loved for its fluid sensuality.
They were introduced by a mutual friend; in fact one of the first times they met was when Morris was giving a talk at London’s Design Museum about Charlotte Perriand. It’s a fitting origins story: Perriand was the iconic designer and architect whose mantra, ‘l’art de vivre’ (‘the art of living’), was rooted in a belief that good design = good living. Similarly, both Morris and Jorge embrace an unrestrictive elegance that is rooted in functionality as much as it is art.
The initial spark of the collaboration came when Morris – who always pays as much attention to the interior of her designs, with their clever, nifty pockets, as the exterior – wanted to create a jewelry case. Although she had initially been taken with the idea of a trunk, she deadpans: “It’s a great idea if you travel by steamship.” Jorge, too, admits that, although he liked the idea in theory, it ultimately wouldn’t have worked because “Métier is creating for a real woman. A real, chic woman.”
And so they created a diminutive jewelry case inspired by an altogether earthier item: “An accordion-style pouch thing that my aunt sewed for herself in the ’60s to go to Woodstock,” says Morris, laughing. “I don’t know what she was keeping in there!” Slowly, this evolved into a buttery-suede case, and the genesis of the collection.
In exchanging ideas developing that design, they noticed more and more alignment. “I feel like we are both looking at a similar woman – and it’s much more a woman than a girl,” says Jorge. “Even though my jewelry is more sensual, full of curves – and the Métier bags are more architectural – it’s also for a woman.” Given that they were working harmoniously and easily together, why stop with the case? So they didn’t.
This is how Morris and Jorge have also come to design four evening bags. From a neat little dance-the-night-away (another interest they share) crossbody to an impeccable top-handle bag – in suede and a glossy calfskin that Morris developed especially – the styles exude an effortless sophistication. These are enhanced by gold and enamel detailing – Jorge’s take on Métier’s signature hardware. It is an unusual collection in that it feels totally co-owned and co-authored; honest to both their aesthetics.
I think what’s rare about both our brands, and really allows collaboration to work so well, is we don’t have pressures on time for seasons and specific moments,” says Morris. “We allowed it to build and grow organically.” Slowly, the collection unfurled. “We would let things sit, and when we met again, it was almost like it had found its way,” adds Jorge.
It also helps that the two are completely aligned in their values and how they perceive what they want to do. As Jorge says: “Both of us are so obsessed with quality and the customer and putting our stamp on what we think luxury is.” But beyond aesthetic and personality, there is also an alignment of their respective brands’ status: Métier is seven years old; Jorge’s jewelry line has been going for a decade. “What I think is really exciting is there is a crop of newer, younger brands in the luxury space that aren’t these big, established heritage names,” says Morris, adding that with their ideals around craftsmanship and quality, they are building businesses with the ambition of being able to go “toe to toe with the big behemoths” – if not in stature, then in uncompromising quality and design integrity. “Creating the new heritage, basically.”
Morris is American; Jorge, Brazilian. Both now live and work in London, away from their families – is there a sense of realizing how important one’s chosen community is? “Definitely. Totally. Being away from home brings people together,” says Jorge. “Hugely,” says Morris, adding that the relationships she has fostered are “the best part of all this. A silver lining you don’t expect when you start out.”
Indeed, one of the reasons this project has been so enjoyable is that, as Morris points out, it can be lonely running your own business. “It’s so nice to get to collaborate and work with someone – and Fernando’s a true artist.” “I see Melissa as so sharp,” says Jorge. “She’s bubbly and fun, but she really knows how to rein it in. This rhythm of working with her has really brought something good out of me. She’s a sharp, smart, intelligent, inspiring woman – and she wears my jewelry really well,” he laughs. And does it go the other way? Is Jorge a Métier muse? “Obviously!” says Morris. “Fernando has a heart of gold. He is gentle, caring, passionate, uncompromising, genuine, fun. I’m getting a best friend out of this process.”
Words by Laura Antonia Jordan, fashion news and features director of British Grazia.